Friday, August 13, 2010

Long Lefts at Tiana

GoPro HD Hero Paddlecam and Olympus 8010 handheld footage of myself and the crew catching waist to head-high waves on the outer bar at Tiana Beach last Sunday, which included many looong lefts:

and a few fun rights as well:


I left one wave out of the footage, which was probably the most beautiful, and most threatening, of the day. On one outbound paddle back through the channel, a giant set reared its head. Excited, I pulled out the handheld Olympus and started shooting. Joe Natalie scored a big ride, while an outbound Wolf dove for cover under 6' of whitewater. I was not spared as the shoulder reached right into the channel, knocking me off my SUP-photographer's perch. As I scrambled to my board, hoots and shouts of glee pulled my camera's lens to the next wave. There, in all its powerful glory, loomed a head-high, glassy-clean wave with a SUP surfer having the time of their life. All I could think about was how great would this footage be, and steadied the camera to capture the moment.

It's best in life to not make assumptions, especially if you're a surf photographer. Even though a rider may seem to be looking right at you, and even though this rider has surfed past you on several waves already, when you're down in the water and they're on a big wave, it's best to expect the worst -- that they can't see at all, and might run you over. We were lucky to get this lesson for free - both boards and bodies were unharmed. But life is also about learning from mistakes, making adjustments and trying it all over again. May we all return to the waves, be more aware and respectful of other riders, and when in doubt, shout it out!


PeconicPuffin said...

Love those long lefts! In addition to all the great SUP shots, the short bit with Scott carving left is beautiful.

One last time: Sorry about running over your board!

Catapulting Aaron said...

sick video... seems like you guys have been scoring lots of good wave days on the east coast. It's been pretty flat out here lately!

Bunty said...

I just love the sound of the water as you are surfing down the wave - such a peaceful and relaxing sound. They looked like real fun sized waves too.

Unknown said...

yo dude i just saw your video on youtube from hannah at flying point last year. i think im the surfer dropping in on the kayaker at 15 seconds. i think. it looks like me on my board.

anyway, i lifeguard on that beach, and i was wondering if you're out here. ive been surfing every day, crap or waves, at that beach club (b/w scott cameron and flying point) for the last 6 years. let me know if you're around this summer. i've been looking for a surf photographer, and if you're gonna be around this sunday, monday, or tuesday (depending on twhen this swell comed in) shoot me an e-mail at
yeah, that's really my e-mail. sick shots of that green water day. thanks.

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